By Sir Vincent

There are simple rules for suit buttons

And once you know them, you’ll never get them wrong again.

Suit buttoning is one of those small details that separates a man who wears a suit from a man who truly understands one.

The good news is that the rules are remarkably simple.

The bad news?

Many men still get them wrong.

Fortunately, after reading this guide, you won’t be one of them.

The two-button jacket

This is by far the most common jacket today.

The rule is simple:

Always button the top button. Never button the bottom button.

Or, of course, wear the jacket completely open.

Buttoning the bottom button disrupts the line of the jacket and restricts movement.

There is an old story that this custom originated with King Edward VII, who supposedly left his lower button undone because he had grown too large for his jackets. Whether entirely true or not, the rule has endured for generations.

The three-button jacket

Three-button jackets are less common today but remain a classic option.

The traditional rule is often remembered as:

Sometimes. Always. Never.

• The top button: optional.
• The middle button: always.
• The bottom button: never.

Button the middle button as your default.

The upper button may be fastened if it suits the cut of the jacket and your preference.

The lower button remains untouched.

Always.

The double-breasted jacket

A double-breasted jacket follows slightly different rules.

In most cases, it should remain buttoned while standing.

The internal anchor button should also be fastened, as it helps the jacket drape correctly and maintain its shape.

Double-breasted tailoring is designed to create structure and elegance. Wearing it open often defeats the purpose.

Unbutton when sitting

One rule matters regardless of the jacket you wear:

Unbutton your jacket before sitting down.

This protects the fabric, reduces stress on the buttons and allows the jacket to fall naturally.

A buttoned jacket while seated rarely looks comfortable.

And elegance should never look uncomfortable.

The main exception is a one-button dinner jacket, which may remain buttoned depending on tradition and circumstance.

Learn the rules before you break them

Style rules are not laws.

They are conventions that have survived because they tend to look good.

Once you understand them, you are free to interpret them.

But as with all forms of style, it is wise to learn the rules before deciding to break them.

Final thoughts

Suit buttoning is a small detail.

But style is often a collection of small details done consistently well.

Remember:

Top button: yes. Bottom button: never.

And when in doubt:

Stand buttoned. Sit unbuttoned.

That rule alone will take you surprisingly far.