Falcontailor

Stylish & Trendy

Everyone can look trendy with a little bit of effort and money.

But to both be and look stylish is more of bringing out your own personality, really. To boost it. To find the accessories. To love yourself and to care and to respect and put effort to the details. What is it that you like? What makes you tick? Finding your passions. What are you passionate about?

Here is some inspiration:

Photo from pakbae

Photo from Mr Porter

Photo from Cordone 1956

Photo from acuratedman

Photo from classydappermen

Photo from thebespokedudeseyewear

Photo from garconjon

Photo from agnelli-esque

Photo from streetspectator

Photo from style guy

 Photo from menstyleworld

Photo from menlovefashiontoo

Photo from menlovefashiontoo

Photo from menneedmorestyle

Photo from neo-dandyism

Photo from thekoreanbarber

Photo from 1000yardstyle

Photo from laragosta

Photo from menlovefashiontoo

Photo from ruggedmenswear

Photo from newsprezzatura

Photo from pitti-moda

Photo from street-heritage

Photo from sartoriomerta

Photo from sprezzatura-eleganza

Photo from sprezzatura-eleganza

Photo from gentlemanuniverse

Photo from insee

Photo from insee

Photo from classydappermen

Photo from globalstylemen

Photo from globalstylemen

Photo from streetstylevgenio

Photo from swagwithamessage

 

 

13
Feb
2019

Business is business

 

Whatever you hear about business suits and shirts

 

– please remember that a business suit is either black, dark grey or dark blue. Mid grey is also okay. It can be plain or pinstriped. But never another colour or checked. And business shirts are either white or blue. Plain. The classic blue shirt with white collar is okay too.

When it comes to colours and fabrics for businessmen the choices are easy. It’s not boring – I can agree that it is traditional – but there are hundreds of other choices you can make for your business outfit like buttoning, lapels, vest and more. And even if you think it’s boring, you dress for business to show respect for the customer. And the business.

Regarding casual, stylish and trendy suit and shirts and the occasions when you wear them, possibilities are endless! And I love them. I know that you at many workplaces you can wear casual suits and shirts. But they are not business suits and shirts. Punto finale.

You can also read here* what I write about weaves for formal and business events.

 

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15
Dec
2018

Things to consider when buying a custom suit

I could go on forever raving about all the details you could think of to create a unique suit.

But I’ll stick to the more important stuff.

 

Cut

Regular, loose or slim? What do you like best and what is your individual style? In North America the regular and sometimes even the loose cut is very common. It’s traditional and classic. In Europe and the rest of the world, trends have been more slim for a period. British Traditional suits are cut closer to the body. They have slightly narrower and defined shoulders with higher armhole. The Italian cut appears more trendy and sleek. Mostly among young men, the skinny cut that contours your body closely with limited room for movement has been very popular for some time.

Lapels

How thick do you like your lapels? Thinner lapels are more modern and can give a young look, while thicker are more traditional.

Buttons

Many people would use on a two-button suit. It’s the most common suitable for most body types but determine what might be best for your body type before going with two buttons. Three buttons is more elegant and can sometimes give a more stiff impression. Tall persons often look good in 3 buttons. The one button suit is the cooler, hipper younger brother of the two button suit. An even lower button stance and a deeper V. But be careful, it’s possible that this look can be seen as a bit too cool in a conservative work environment.

2 or 3 piece?

Like the 3 button suit – apart from being warmer – the vest gives a more elegant impression. If you really want to give a refined impression – use a vest to your suit.

Vents

No vent, single vent, or double vent. The single vent is the most common and the double vent is the least restrictive.

Lining

Either you stick to the standard lining that goes with the fabric you choose. Or you take the chance to show your special personality. Apart from providing an opportunity to express your character, lining is important to protect your suit.

Fabric

There are many different fabrics. I recommend having at least two suits; one for the warmer months and one for the colder months.

Care

A tailored suit is truly an investment. If you care for it properly, it should last years. One thing that can do the most damage to your beautiful suit is taking it to the cleaner too often. And be sure that you store it correctly. Like a luxury car, your bespoke suit should be well taken care of.

14
Sep
2018

The only 4 suits you'll ever need to own

 

What are the four essential suits in a gentleman’s wardrobe?

Or, actually, better put, what are the four suits that you require the most? It’s an almost impossible question. We are so different and have so dissimilar personalities and taste in style and preference. But still. There are a few basic suits that could be said to be the foundation of a man’s suit wardrobe. You might be young, you might just have started a job and career and are thinking, how do you make sure you have what you need in your closet? You might be middle age and discovered that many of those “quite new” suits actually are 10, 15 or 20 years old. Or you are just a fan of nice suits. Like me and many of us.

I have said it before; it’s not a question of money. Not at all. But more a question of carefully selected materials and the right cut. And the confidence that it gives you.

 

1. The navy suit

The number one suit of all times and all categories. If you only have one suit, it should be this one. Single breasted and two-buttoned. Esquire calls it the “workhorse,” and it’s true. It takes you through all kinds of events, from high to low, private and professional. Evening out or the speech of your life in front of a huge audience. The navy suit will take you through it respectfully. Choose a medium weight breathable fabric so you can use it year around. It looks good no matter your skin complexion. You can wear it to all shoe and belt colours*.

 

2. The grey suit

Number two is also a given choice; the plain dark grey suit. Two-buttoned. A little more formal than the navy. You can wear it around the clock, day and night. The equivalent of women’s little black dress. Charcoal or more towards mid grey, it’s still the multipurpose suit that can be dressed up or down depending on occasion.

You can even wear it with a T-shirt* and jeans.

 

3. The dark double breasted suit

Some – especially North American style experts – would argue that the beige cotton khaki suit is absolutely necessary in the wardrobe. I would say that you have very limited use for it especially if you live in a colder climate. But a double breasted suit, preferably dark, is really versatile. It’s more casual than the strict business look. But make sure the cut is sleek! We have left the boxy cuts from the old days.

 

4. The black suit

Classic. It works well for the office, parties and evening events. It is never wrong in business occasions, even if you are not an IBM’er or a Mormon. If you don’t have or want to use a dinner jacket, the black suit is the perfect choice. The classic black suit. And you can use it at funerals with a white shirt and black tie.

 

5. The dinner suit

I said “the only 4 suits you need, and now I write about a fifth? Yes. How many black tie invitations do you get a year? (Not you Mr. Bond, I mean the rest of us). Not many, right? But they do come, even if they come quite infrequent. And at those occasions you want to look and feel the best. You can decline the invitation, or you can take the opportunity to get yourself a dinner suit.

08
Sep
2018

Wear a T-shirt with a blazer

Wearing a T-shirt with your suit jacket

 

Being and dressing casual is a wonderful thing.

 

Although it can be quite difficult mixing styles – it’s a hard thing to master – it can be really dapper and stylish if you get it right. And a great chance to boast your individuality!

Combine the T-shirt and blazer with a pair of skinny jeans or smart joggers. Please mind that if you wear joggers it’s important that the outfit is well-fitted.

  • Don’t try to combine too many colours – keep it to a minimum
  • Make sure that they are slim fitting.
  • Skip the branded T-shirts.
  • Mind the trousers and leave out the baggy, ill fitted or loose pants.
  • Please also keep the shoes in one colour, simple and sleek.

Here are some examples for your inspiration:

 

Photo from d’marge

Photo from GQ

Photo from the idle man

Photo from d’marge

Photo from quora

05
Aug
2018

What to wear when it’s hot out

Looking good in the heat

 

1. Material is number 1

The absolute number one summer material in both shirts and suits is without any doubt linen and the second I would say… linen. Linen is very lightweight and it is truly a fantastic material; it actually keeps you cold when it’s hot out and warm when it’s cold. It should be worn a little wrinkled so it will always look good on you. Also an oxford shirt in cotton would breathe a little more. Fabrics that breathe will help you to stay cool.

2. Choose a light colour

Light colours reflect the light and heat, while dark colours absorb it. So even if you think it’s really cool – and it is – to wear black you migh want to consider a lighter colour for the hot summer day. A white or beige suit can be really fly.

3. Wear an undershirt

An ordinary T-shirt under your shirt will help you to hide that sometimes inevitable perspiration. A T-shirt, yes, not a sleeveless tank top – it’s the pits you want to help. But remember that a black or white T-shirt will show through. For example grey is better. It’s the same trick that women use with their underwear not to show throgh their skirt or pants…

4. Get a jacket or suit without lining

Precisely. Especially polyester lining could make you feel hot. Be summer dapper and skip the lining or get a delicate lining.

5. Loosen up

Have you seen someone in the desert wear tight garments? There is a reason for that; it’s loose, not tight. A bedouin garment can even be worn black. You want more air to flow over the skin, so why not skip the extra skinny fit for that very hot summer day and still look smart? It’s about airflow.

6. Socks

If you are casual – and I repeat – only if you are casual you might want to use the no-show socks and the pants a little rolled up. No socks at all is a complete style disaster and is not even worth discussing. Either way, make sure that your socks are in breathable fabrics, that is at least 85% cotton, preferably 100%. A new material is bamboo. It has many natural qualities.

7. The hat

Oh, yes, the gentleman knows that a hat doesn’t only look elegant – the stylish headwear protects you from the sun. Linen Caps, panamas, straw fedoras…. the choices are many and I recommend that you invest a little time in finding a stylish headwear.

8. More

There are always several tricks you can use that have been tried out by gentlemen for many, many years. A hankerchief serves not only to whipe the tears of a maiden in need, but also cleaning off sweat. Bring a change of clothes if the day is long and dont forget a nice after shave.

04
Jul
2018

Buttoning guide

 

There are some simple rules for your suit buttons

 

Very simple, and yet you see lot of men doing it wrong. Don’t be one of them.

 

It is a two-button suit? Only button the upper, never the bottom button. Never ever. Or leave both buttons open. The same thing applies for the three-button suit, never button the bottom button, but in this case always button the middle button, the top button is a free choice. If you wear a double-breasted jacket, make sure you always button the so-called anchor button. (The extra button hole and button on the inside of the jacket). And here, always button the middle button but never the bottom one.

And a last advice; when sitting down, always unbutton. Always. If you forget that, apart from looking corny and stiff, you risk ruining your suit or even popping a button. Be comfy and calm. The only exception to this rule is a single-button jacket.

By the way, everyone can of course button as many buttons as he likes, but if you want to follow the classic rules and know some style history, these are the rules.

The “Sometimes, Always, Never” button rule:

 

04
Apr
2018

Material & fabrics

Would I better choose 100% wool, linen and cotton – or a mix?

 

Materials

When it comes to material I’m not sure that I can give a simple answer to what the best choice is but I sure can give you a straight answer: It depends.

100% natural fibres like cotton, linen, wool or a blend of these are seldom wrong. Natural materials breathe and have a nice feeling to your skin. Pure cotton is probably the most popular material. The longer the fibres, the better the quality.

 

Suit materials

If you choose a really good quality of 100% wool it’s probably quite durable as well. But if you plan to use it every day at the office I would either choose a wool blend or simply take off my jacket while sitting at the desk to avoid the arms being well-worn quite fast.

A mix will be more durable and sometimes retain shape better. It is all about the physical make of the fibres – nylon doesn’t stretch nearly as much and will return to the original shape unlike wool, the fibres are finer with no nap so it is impossible to felt itself together, and nylon is indisputably more durable and abrasion-resistant than wool so a blended item will be harder-wearing than 100% wool.

So, a wool blend can definitely be the number 1 choice for many occasions. Some people find 100% wool to be scratchy on their skin, so I’m sure they would appreciate blends.

But yet – if you want the best – the choice is certainly and unquestionable a 100% cashmere or merino wool.

Linen is very lightweight and it is truly a fantastic material; it actually keeps you cold when it’s hot out and warm when it’s cold. But it is absolutely the number 1 summer material. I wouldn’t go for linen when it’s too cold. Linen should be worn wrinkled. But if you have been sitting at a hot office desk all day the trousers can be a little too wrinkled. But that wouldn’t be a complete disaster though!

 

Shirt materials

100% cotton is undeniably the most popular shirt material. It breathes and doesn’t get to hot. A cotton mix takes advantage of the qualities of both the natural cotton and the synthetic fibres in terms of durability and more. Modern synthetic fibres like viscose breathes and feels silky similar to cotton.

A linen shirt in the summer is one of the most stylish things you can wear in the summer. No matter how hot is gets, you will feel and look like a stylish and trendy gentleman. Even in jeans.

 

Fabrics

On the subject of wool, one should keep in mind that a lighter fabric with a higher Super number is not a guarantee of a better fabric, it just indicates that the fibres have a thinner diameter. Nor does it provide any information about the particular weave or how heavy the fabric is.

Some people believe that a lighter fabric wears cooler and thus is more comfortable than a heavier fabric, but such generalizations are simply wrong. A heavy, open weave fabric generally feels much cooler and comfortable on a hot day than a tightly woven, lightweight super 150 fabric. Furthermore, the lining and canvas of a jacket has a tremendous impact.

Cotton fabrics come in infinite qualities, colours, fabrics and textures. Even weaves. I would argue that a Twill, Spun, Silky or even Herringbone weave would work for most occasions including formal and business, whereas weaves like Oxford and Fil-a-fil better suits a more casual look for free time.

Wrinkle resistant, wrinkle free and easy iron. You gotta love them. No matter who irons your shirts, they look more ironed and sophisticated. But as with every benefit there is a downside. They have been chemically treated and in some cases, it impacts the durability. But in normal circumstances is simply doesn’t matter. There are plenty of high quality easy iron fabrics that have better durability than traditional cotton fabrics.

Of all advice, I would absolutely claim that the washing is most important. Follow the washing instructions and wash carefully, rinse and hang the garment properly. Use modern detergent products and don’t overdose. Always iron delicate fabrics, inside out on a low temperature setting. Use a press cloth such as a clean pillow case. For some fabrics, e.g. wool, use steam or press with a slightly damp cloth, using light pressure and you will have a suit or shirt that maintains shape and colours for a long time.

Finally- if you have a suit or a shirt tailor made – I would suggest choosing a good quality of material and fabric.

27
Mar
2018

How to tie a tie

Tying a tie – the guide

It might be that you, just as I, learnt how to tie a tie from your father. We are many that learnt how to tie a tie from our fathers. They taught us one knot, the one they knew, and perhaps had learnt from their father, uncle or friend. So, we follow it like zombies. It’s got to be the best knot in the world. It just feels so safe, comforting and normal to use it. Yes, I agree it does. But instead of getting all amateur psychologist on you and your childhood, let me just humbly suggest that there might be other tie knots as well. Out there in the world, waiting for you to discover them. Why not try a new knot tomorrow? Here are the five most common and used knots.

 

The five tie knots every man should know:

 

Half-Windsor knot – Windsor knot – Prat knot – Four in hand – Bow tie

There are very many other knots to try if you like; Nicky, Kelvin, Oriental, St Andrew, Balthus, Hanover, Plattsburg, Grantchester, Victoria, Café, Eldredge, Trinity, Christensen and many more

However, these five are the are ones I think you should know. Here are the manuals.

 

Half-Windsor knot

The common, very even knot. Very popular and perfect for the medium vide tie. And super if you are tall. Simpler than the full Windsor knot.

  1. Bring long end across short end
  2. Pass the long end behind the short end
  3. Pass long end around front
  4. Bring up and down through the loop
  5. Tighten with a centre dimple

 

Windsor knot

Some call it Double Windsor or Full Windsor. Very symmetric and quite large shape. Perfect if you got a large neck or if you wear a shirt with wide spread collar. Don’t choose this one with a short tie.

  1. Bring long end across short end
  2. Bring long end up through centre
  3. Pass the long end behind the short end
  4. Bring long end over and down
  5. Bring long end across the front
  6. Bring long end up and over
  7. Tighten with a centre dimple

 

Pratt knot

Simple and convenient, easy to make and used for formal or semi-formal events

  1. Start with the tie inside out
  2. Bring long end across short end
  3. Pass the long end behind the short end
  4. Pass long end around front
  5. Bring up and down through the loop
  6. Tighten with a centre dimple

 

Four in hand knot

The oldie. Very easy to learn. Looks great with button down shirts and has quite a small, longish shape.

  1. Bring long end across short end
  2. Pass the long end behind the short end
  3. Bring long end across the front
  4. Bring long end up through centre loop
  5. Pull long end down through loop
  6. Tighten with a centre dimple

 

Bow tie

It’s easy! I promise. Please avoid the pre-tied or clip on.

  1. Cross end A over end B
  2. Bring end A up through the back of end B
  3. Fold end B to the left making a bow tie shape
  4. Bring end A over the middle of end B
  5. Fold end A and pass it through the loop behind end B
  6. Tighten your knot
  7. Adjust until both sides are even
23
Dec
2017

Colour guide for shoes

 

The wrong colour on your shoes will definitely kill your whole appearance

 

A black or charcoal suit requires black shoes and a brown suit requires dark or light brown shoes. A light grey suit – as well as a blue or navy suit- on the other hand, opens up your choices of shoe colour. These style rules are universal. Then there could be local etiquette rules implying that brown shoes should not be worn in the evening or even in the city. But local and national etiquette rules are a completely different story.

So first of all, these rules are an overall guide. They are not absolute by any means. Going for a unique look and make a conscious decision of breaking the rules is always okay, but being unaware of the rules could easily make you look like a total dork to say the truth.

A very common blunder is assuming that black is neutral and that black shoes go with any suit.

We could simplify massively and say that there are 5 common suit colours; black, navy blue, charcoal, medium- or light grey and brown. Continuing the simplifying path one could say that there are 3 main shoe colours; black brown and burgundy (Bordeaux, oxblood or cordovan).

 

A black suit

A black suit requires black shoes. You should avoid other shoe colours. That actually makes the black suit the least flexible, but that is also why it is most often used in business, funerals or black-tie parties. I would recommend charcoal or navy blue that is appropriate enough for most occasions.

 

The navy blue suit

The navy blue suit comfortably goes with all if the 3 main colours. This is a very safe choice for most situations. Black shoes signal business whereas brown is a little more casual and burgundy even creative.

 

A charcoal suit

A charcoal suit goes perfectly with black shoes. It is the best choice. It could also go quite well with burgundy shoes. But stay away from brown shoes. Why? Because brown shoes are usually lighter and will almost “force” people to look at them. They will stick out a little. There is also a more abstract contrast between the more formal charcoal and the less formal brown. Burgundy shoes will look more relaxed than black shoes, but still very classy.

 

Medium-or light grey suits

Medium-or light grey suits are less formal than navy blue suits, but still offer the same flexibility. They could be used in many less formal office situations where you don’t have to be strictly business. But in that case I would definitely go for the black shoes. Choose your brown or burgundy shoes to give yourself a more casual look. And the lighter the grey the more casual and easier to apply pattern to your shirt.

 

The brown suit

The brown suit is a little special and also a personal favourite of mine. It goes perfectly with brown and burgundy shoes. Well, most brown shoes. The thing is that there needs to be a visible difference in shades between the shoes and the suit and generally it’s better when the shoes are darker than the suit. You don’t want the shoes to take all the attention. Avoid black shoes. The general understanding is that black shoes never match brown suits, although I actually have worn black shoes to a brown suit. But that was a perfectly conscious decision at that specific occasion. And the shoes were matte and the suit was very dark brown. Brown is more casual than the darker colours and traditionally seen as both academic and casual.

 

 

 

08
Nov
2017

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